Rolex FAQ & FACTS

LETTER & SERIAL NUMBERS

Starting in 1987 Rolex started putting a letter in front of its serial numbers. The following is a list of letter and the year the series was introduced. Please note that it is not uncommon to find a mix of serial numbers mixed in. For example at my local AD here in Toronto they have Y, F and D serial watches available. What does this mean? Not much in terms of the watch itself other than the fact the the old serial number watches were/are less popular and they have had it sitting in their inventory for some time. This does not effect the factory warranty as it starts at the date of purchase and not the date of manufacturing.

R 1987
L 1988
E 1990
X 1991
N 1991 (Nov)
C 1992
S 1993
W 1994
T 1996
U 1997 (Aug)
A 1998 (Nov)
P 2000 (Jan)
K 2001 (Sep)
Y 2002 (Sep)
F 2003 (Sep)
D 2005 (Apr)
Z 2006 (May)
M 2007 (Aug)

HOLOGRAM ON CASE-BACK

Does this guarantee the watch is real?

Absolutely not, the counterfeiters have been putting on a hologram sticker on the back for years. The holograms can be purchased by the sheets on ebay so do not assume that because the watch has a sticker on the back that it is real.

Do I decrease the value of the watch by removing it?

Not at all, since over time the sticker will wear and become a sticky mess. Also like I said above fake stickers can be bought so ppl these days don't really care if the sticker is on the back.

SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED
What this means is that the watch has been tested by Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronometers (COSC) COSC is the swiss standard for testing watch movements. They are independent and every movement gets tested with the same standards.

A movement that is COSC certified is accurate from -4 to +6 seconds a day anything in that range is acceptable. So if your watch is slow 4 seconds a day or fast 6 seconds a day (or anywhere in between) don't worry about it.

SERVICING

How often should I service my Rolex?
NOTE: this is just the typical guideline that Rolex recommends in their literature, it is not engraved in stone, many have gone decades without servicing and have perfectly running timepieces.

The main thing is to have it pressure tested annually by a Rolex certified watchmaker, especially if it is a divers watch. The main reason for a annual check is to make sure that the case is waterproof. The test is free, if your watchmaker wants to charge you for it go to one that doesn't.

A full service should be done every 5-7 years depending on use. Note it is not uncommon for oils inside the movement to dry out if the watch is exposed to harsh climates. Also gaskets in the case could dry out quicker with extreme exposure to hot and cold.

Who should I get to do the servicing?

ROLEX Servicing centres can be found around the world and they do top notch work, however there are many great watch makers other there than can properly service Rolexes. Note though that in some parts of the world only Rolex certified watchmakers may order parts.

ALWAYS make sure that the watch maker you go to uses ORIGINAL ROLEX PARTS, there is nothing else that comes close to them, you will end up hurting your watch in the long run, there are many horror stories out there about cheap dials that flake off paint into the movement and what not.

Cleaning your Rolex

This has been a topic of debate lately, and I think it is rather simple to keep your watches clean. Simple soap and water is what I have been using for over 15 years on all my watches with bracelets. I will say that using a dish-washing detergent is not advised as ppl have stated that the grease cutting properties will dry out the gaskets prematurely. If you wash your bracelet regularly there is no reason why a mild hand soap and your fingers wont wash your wash effectively. If you use a moisturising soap for your hands and that doesn't dry out your bracelet and watch will not be harmed. I rinse my watch on a weekly basis and have never had any issues of build up on them.

Now this is just a guide and is not the only way to wash your watch. Some Pol like to use a soft brush, but I have never had the need to do so.

Watch Winding Setting Etc.

Let's take the example that you want to set you watch at PRECISELY 11 o'clock AM on the 27th. of May 2007.

Take the following steps: (important things are underlined and in red)

1) Unscrew the winding crown counterclockwise. Two or three turns, and then the winding crown should "pop out" in the "winding position". If not, make SURE that the winding crown is free of the threads before winding the watch. Reason: if you turn the winding crown clockwise while it is still on the threads and if you are NOT pushing the winding crown inward whilst turning it, you might damage the threads. So again: Make sure that the winding crown is free of the threads before winding the watch!

2) Now you give your watch at LEAST 30-40 FULL windings by the crown. Wind the watch by turning the crown CLOCKWISE and NOT "back and forth" as some do! The reason to wind the watch manually when it has stopped: That way you make sure that the watch is FULLY wound and will have its full power reserve. By just "shaking it to get it going" you will NOT get the full power reserve. Do not be afraid of "over-winding" the watch (there is a safety catch to prevent over winding), but about 30 full windings should be enough.

3) IMPORTANT STEP! Remember that our example states that you want to get your watch going at 11 AM (in the "morning")??

What you do BEFORE MOVING THE HANDS is to pull out the winding crown FULLY (time setting position) and then you turn the hands to make SURE that both the hour hand and minute hand stand at FIVE OR SIX o'clock!Reason: the date change mechanism (date-wheel) could be harmed if you change the date MANUALLY during the period from 21 to 01 o'clock. So by setting the hour and minute hand well off that period is strongly advised.

4) (now back to the date): Push the winding crown back to the SECOND notch (date change notch) and then advance the date MANUALLY via the winding crown until you reach the date of YESTERDAY (in our example: the 26th. of May).

5) Then you - once again - pull out the winding crown to the LAST notch (time setting position) and stop the seconds hand (that is now running since you have wound the watch manually!) at EXACTLY 12 o'clock (easier now to synchronise with another watch!).

6) Then you advance the hands by turning the winding crown clockwise. Keep a close eye on the date window as you advance the hands!. IF the date changes at midnight to the date of our example then you will have to advance the hands another 11 hours so that the date will change correctly at next midnight. If the date does NOT change, you have to advance the hands accordingly.

7) If you want to make the minute hand points EXACTLY on the given minute when the seconds hand has reached "12" (or "60" seconds), then you must know that there is some "play" in the hands. So if you just set the minute hand according to our example (EXACTLY 11 AM so that the minute hand will point exactly on the 12) then you will notice that by "one minute past 11 AM" the minute hand will NOT (or probably not!) point EXACTLY and spot on on the minute but rather somewhat (like 15 seconds) PAST it due to the "play" in the hands!

Solution: Following the example, turn the minute hand approximately TEN minutes PAST "11 AM" and then turn the minute hand BACK again to the EXACT time (hour hand point at "11" and minute and seconds hand pointing - exactly - on "12"). Then - EVER SO GENTLY - turn the winding crown clockwise so that the minute hand actually points a bit (like "15 seconds" PAST the full minute marker). That way you adjusted to the "play" of the minute hand, and the minute hand will point EXACTLY on the minute next time the seconds hand reaches "twelve".

8) When you have wound the watch, set the time and date, screw the winding crown back so that the watch is once again waterproof. By the way: You do not have to screw it very hard onto the case. As soon as you feel some resistance, stop using more force on the crown."

When were they Introduced?
1926 Oyster Case
1927 Serial Number On Oyster Case
1931 Oyster Perpetual
1938 Bubble Back
1938 Oyster Bracelet
1945 Jubilee Bracelet
1945 Datejust
1950 "Mercedes" Hands
1953 Submariner 100m/330ft
1953 Explorer
1954 GMT-Master
1954 Submariner 200m / 660ft
1954 Cyclops (aka Magnifying bump on Crystal)
1954 Lady's Oyster Perpetual
1956 Day-Date
1956 President Bracelet
1959 Submariner gets Crown Guards and 40mm Case
1960 Deep Sea Special
1961 Oyster Cosmograph
1962 Cosmograph Daytona
1965 Submariner Date
1965 Submariner Date 18 k YG
1967 Sea-Dweller
1971 Explorer II
1972 Hacking Movement
1974 Sapphire Crystal
1976 Oysterquartz
1977 Oysterquartz Day-Date
1977 Quick Set Date Feature
1978 Sea-Dweller 4000
1979 Submariner 300m/1000ft with Sapphire Crystal
1983 GMT-Master II
1983 Submariner Rolesor (aka Sub TT)
1988 Cosmograph Daytona (Zenith Movement aka Cal. 4030)
1992 Yachtmaster
1994 Yachtmaster Lady & Mid-Sized aka Boys Size
2000 Cosmograph Daytona with new in-house Mvt (Cal. 4130)
2001 Laser Etched Hologram In Crystal
2003 "Green" Submariner Date (aka Anniversary Model with Maxi Dial)
2002 end of Y series early
2003. Non lugs holes started to make there appearence on most models.
2004 Serial F/D on some models the Rolex Rolex Rolex On the Rehaut ring
2004 New Datejust Case
2005 New GMT-Master YG (Cal. 3186)
2006 New GMT-Master Rolesor (Cal. 3186)

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